This Isn't Spain

Today, Thursday, May 26th is the first time I saw evidence of the conflict between the Basque and the Spanish. Earlier there were bilingual traffic and store signs (Basque and Spanish) in Navarra similar to signs in Quebec or the Celtic parts of Ireland. But today I saw an increase in angry graffiti like the photo above that shouted for independence and self-governance. The little tapas bar across from the Jesus y Maria Albergue where I stayed seemed to be a favorite meeting place for young like-minded Basque men, as the bar had signs in the windows that proclaimed their passionate ideals.

Donde Esta El Bano

It's amazing how quickly one's priorities shift along the Camino. For example, it is miles between bathrooms so sometimes this is all you can think or talk about. This problem becomes a kind of laughing joke among the women pilgrims. The icon we found on the women's bathroom room door in a cafe near Irotza in Navarra is proof of that. 

Camino de Santiago: Cow Bells and Caffe

My journey began this morning when the monks came into the dorms at 6:00 am singing something in Latin. I was out the door by 7:00am.  As you can see I have 790 kilometers to go.

If Navarra Spain had a national song it would have to be cowbells. Even the horses, goats, and sheep wear bells. Everywhere we walk we hear them. This area is rural, beautiful, and peaceful. I love this walk so far.

Stopped about 8:30am for cafe con leche y pan (coffee with milk and bread). The town was Basque, so cute and proud of it. Today, we will walk through 5 little towns. I can't wait!