Green, Green Galicia

It has been fun walking through Galicia despite my painful feet. Everything is so green and lush. We walk mostly on dirt paths through woods. Two more days and we will be walking into Santiago de Compostela. I have mixed feelings; I am excited but also sad it is ending.

Camino de Santiago: Leon versus Burgos

Yesterday I was in Leon, Spain as a pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago. It was a stormy day so that may have influenced my opinion about the city, but I decided that I liked Burgos better. Both have huge gothic cathedrals and older city centers with shops and restaurants. In my opinion, there was more to see and do in Burgos that warranted a second day stay over than in Leon. I also liked the cathedral tour in Burgos better as there was much more to see and learn about. The Burgos tour included their special museum display area in the cost of the ticket. Leon did not.  On the other hand, if it had been a sunny day maybe the Leon Cathedral windows would have been more impressive. 

The other thing that may be influencing my opinion, is that Burgos Cathedral was the first gothic cathedral I saw after seeing so many medieval churches during my earliest days on the Camino de Santiago.  It seemed to lift my spirits and encourage me to continue on my way. In Leon, I am tired and feeling like I want to quit. Amazing how different this stage in the pilgrimage feels to me. Something to think about.

Pilgrim Art

 

Along the Camino, people have taken time to create artwork that depicts their view of a pilgrim. Some show the medieval pilgrim with their long capes, walking stick and drinking gourds. Others show modern pilgrims with their backpacks, sleeping mats, and head scarfs. It's fun to see these statues along the way as they remind us how long the people on the Camino have been housing, feeding and generally taking care of pilgrims. As I walk I remember that millions have walked the path that I am on. St. Francis of Assisi, Templar Knights and the humble medieval pilgrim all on their way to Santiago have experienced the same challenges as me. Kind of amazing how our basic needs haven't changed in over 1000 years, isn't it?

Camino de Santiago: Bulls Running

Well, what I missed in Pamplona I found in Sahagun, Spain. "The Running of the Bulls". On Saturday, Sunday, and Monday the town of Sahagun had a big festival in honor of San Juan. It sort of reminded me of a rodeo. There was a big Catholic Mass at noon and then everyone went home for lunch and their siestas. Then at 6:00 the men gathered the "virgin bulls" in the main plaza so they could run them down the streets to the bull ring. Then the clowns in training ran around in the ring with them.

Bands from different towns played music in a kind of battle of the bands and the crowd cheered for their favorite bands, bulls, and clowns. No bulls were killed and it was, in general, a family friendly night. My strategy was to follow the band in the parade with the older couples. Everyone was so generous and they fed me and taught me about their town. I found that I had a great time! 

Camino de Santiago: Emotional Whine

I had a miserable day today; I was so annoyed I even swore at a bunch of gnats that kept trying to fly in my mouth and up my nose. Today's post is strictly for "truth in advertising" purposes and not to get encouraging comments. I wouldn't want you all to think the Camino is nothing but lovely scenery, good food and meeting great people. And, no that's not snow in the top photo but some kind of tree pollen. It means I'm on heavy allergy medicine and I'm feeling really grouchy.

Yes, this is the scenery for today and for days to come, fields of grain. This area is called the meseta and there is no shade anywhere for miles and miles and miles. Everyone today complained about their sore knees, blisters, shin splints, and other ailments as the heat beat down. Just as I was getting ready to get going on a real good whine, a woman says, "we all have pain, some just enjoy the suffering." With that everyone's tone changed. While some put on music to distract themselves from the pain, others seemed to offer it up in prayer. I opted for some fun music.

My lesson for today is that I will have annoying and even painful days on the Camino (and in life) and it is what I choose to do about it that can make it meaningful or just another whiny day.

Camino de Santiago: Hanging Out

I spent yesterday, June 7th, hanging out with the locals in Burgos. The ones shown here with me in the photo didn't have much to say (hee hee). Seriously, as a solo traveler in a country filled with non-English speakers, there are days when I speak no English at all and I only speak bad Spanish to the shopkeepers. Other days with the help of Google translate I have had full 30-minute conversations with the Dutch, French, German, Italian and Spanish pilgrims I've met along the way. I am learning a lot about myself and others through this process. So far it has been an amazing experience!

Belorado is 900 Years Old

What a lovely surprise to walk into the town of Belorado and discover that they are celebrating their 900th anniversary of their founder. Well, I'm not sure that I fully understand the story but this town did a reenactment and had a kind of renaissance Festival. It was such fun to visit all the different stalls. I loved to watch the dancing and singing and to see all of the children and their families having such a good time. It made me homesick. I hope the end of the school year festivities are going well for all of you too.

La Comida es Buena

I've made two amazing food discoveries while walking in Spain. First, tapas (pinchos) and a beer make a quick and easy dinner. The bar owners are always willing to teach you about the different little delicious plates they have pre-made, ready to be ordered. My favorites so far are a breaded chicken with some kind of amazing cream sauce and simple little Spanish ham (jamon) with cheese (queso) sandwiches. A beer and two tapas plates are 5 Euro. That's a great budget-friendly meal.

Second, after walking for about two hours, I try to find a little local bakery for a breakfast of cappuccino and a pastry. Some of the small villages only have a small bar but the larger towns have amazing patisseries. I'm sad that this isn't something I will likely continue to do when I return home since I won't be walking 10-13 miles a day to burn off the calories. So I will have to enjoy it while it lasts.

Camino de Santiago: Phase One Elevation

I just left Viana this afternoon so part one of seven is completed. The altitude map above shows the ups and downs of mountains and valleys. Today I left the Navarra (Basque) region and entered the region called Rioja. 

The town of Logrono is more industrial than I am used to and all the cars and people are a bit of a shock after the quiet days in rural Spain. However, everyone I meet and many of the places I look wish me a Buen Camino.

Buen Camino Signs

Just when I about to wonder if I am on the right path on the Camino some kind of sign shows up to reassure me that I am going the right way. I guess we all need signs in our lives to reassure us that we are on the life path God wants us to be on. I guess this trip to Spain is my way of looking for the signs. So far I have been mostly worrying about my blisters so I haven't done a lot of soul-searching yet. Maybe that will come once the feet toughen up.  Buen Camino from Sansol, Navarra, Spain.

The Kindness of Strangers

I made it to Irache in time to partake from the famous wine fountain. The monks who used to live in the neighboring monastery historically provided pilgrims with free wine to sustain them on their journey. The new owners have continued the tradition. How kind! Unfortunately, the hotel in Irache is no longer in operation so I had to continue my walk to Villamayor de Monjardin.

The albergues were full when I arrived. One host, Sarah offered me her living room floor before suggesting I stay at the local Casa Rural (B&B). For 35 Euros I have a private room, bathroom with tub and free use of the washing machine! I also get the traditional breakfast of coffee, orange juice, and bread with jam. This is just the kind of pampering I need to recharge for the next week of the pilgrimage.  Buen Camino!

Corpus Christi on the Camino de Santiago:

Today was the feast of Corpus Christi. Last night when we got our Camino passport stamped at the church in Puerta la Reina, Marta told us to join the parish for Mass and the procession around the town on Sunday. While we wanted to walk on to the next village so we could keep up the pace, we decided instead to stay to see this unique experience. After a beautiful Mass we processed around the town. I will try and share the video when I have stronger wifi. 

After lunch we walked about 10 km (6 miles) to the hilltop village of Cirauqui. We limped into the village just as the rain came. Then we had a wonderful pilgrims meal with good wine, food, company, and conversation. Tonight is my last night with Julie and Melissa. So sad! In the morning I will take a cab with them to the station in Estella. After they leave I will get a hotel room and take a day of rest to deal with my blisters and allergies. (Ouch, sniffle)

Weary Pilgrims

"Come to me you who are weary and burdened and I will give you rest." Matthew 11:28

Today was our longest walk and one of my most difficult. As we walked I could feel my blisters growing so I prayed that Julie, Melissa and I would find a gracious and care-giving host and a place to rest. God answered prayer and gave us one of the kindest and most loving hosts at the Camino Perdon Albergue, Señora Ana Calvo. She treated us as her honored guests with dinner and a nice bedroom just for us. In the morning she fed us breakfast and told us stories.

This Isn't Spain

Today, Thursday, May 26th is the first time I saw evidence of the conflict between the Basque and the Spanish. Earlier there were bilingual traffic and store signs (Basque and Spanish) in Navarra similar to signs in Quebec or the Celtic parts of Ireland. But today I saw an increase in angry graffiti like the photo above that shouted for independence and self-governance. The little tapas bar across from the Jesus y Maria Albergue where I stayed seemed to be a favorite meeting place for young like-minded Basque men, as the bar had signs in the windows that proclaimed their passionate ideals.

Camino de Santiago: Sacred Heart

Day Two: Part Two (May 25)

Today we experienced many sacred moments along the Camino. First, we met Neal who was restoring a 13th-century abbey called La Abadia. (In the photo above with fellow Camino turtle, Julie.) We sat and talked about many things till it was time for him to continue his work and for us to hike again.

At the end of another ten-hour day, we hiked up a final very steep hill to the albergue located next to the convent and Church of St. Stephen. We arrived in time to celebrate the Mass and the feast of Maria Magdalena Sophia the foundress of the Sacred Heart Sisters. What lovely women the nuns are. After dinner, they had evening prayer, what they called a sharing, and invited us to join them in the choir loft. Julie and Melissa went and said the loft had pillows and blankets and everyone told their stories. I decided I needed some introvert time so I sat outside to journal and watch the sunset. What a blessed day! 

Donde Esta El Bano

It's amazing how quickly one's priorities shift along the Camino. For example, it is miles between bathrooms so sometimes this is all you can think or talk about. This problem becomes a kind of laughing joke among the women pilgrims. The icon we found on the women's bathroom room door in a cafe near Irotza in Navarra is proof of that. 

Camino de Santiago: Mountains!!!!

Day One - Part Two

The views from the top of the mountains were beautiful but getting to the top was so, so, so hard with an 18-pound pack. The map says we walked 22 kilometers which is a little more than 12 miles but it felt like much, much more. 

But if going up was hard; going down was worse. Rough loose stones and slate jutting up on their sides meant each step had to be taken very carefully. Thank God for the trekking poles. 

I arrived in Zubrini at 5:00pm. I walked 10 hours!!! (Okay, I took breakfast and lunch breaks). Tomorrow I plan to shorten the trip to about 8 miles (turtle time). I met two fellow "turtles" and we plan to walk together for the next week. Then they go back to USA. They plan to walk in stages over the next few years. The dining room at the hostel is shown above. More caffe and bread. 

Camino de Santiago: Cow Bells and Caffe

My journey began this morning when the monks came into the dorms at 6:00 am singing something in Latin. I was out the door by 7:00am.  As you can see I have 790 kilometers to go.

If Navarra Spain had a national song it would have to be cowbells. Even the horses, goats, and sheep wear bells. Everywhere we walk we hear them. This area is rural, beautiful, and peaceful. I love this walk so far.

Stopped about 8:30am for cafe con leche y pan (coffee with milk and bread). The town was Basque, so cute and proud of it. Today, we will walk through 5 little towns. I can't wait!